Powder coated steel body Includes 1 height-adjustable shelf. Loading Capacity: lbs, Weight: lbs Great for the garage, warehouse, mailroom, and work center. Heavy duty and Sturdy, it is made with great quality steel to ensure maximum durability. The superior well made powder coat finish to protect that beautiful paintjob. Scratching, breaking, or chipping is nearly impossible. Multiuse-This tool cart is great for home workshops and some professional environments, could be placed in the garage, workshop, Also it is easy to move, this cabinet loaded with four swivel casters that allow quick and easy movement.
Internal lock system, safe guard your tools. Husky 72 in. More Info and Images Husky 72 in. Overview Reviews Documents. Documents Manual PDF. Overview This Heavy-Duty 10 Drawer Full Depth Chest features an 18 Gauge steel body, 19 gauge steel top, bottom and drawers, quick release ball bearing slides, internal locking system and gas spring cylinder. Overall measurements are Please feel free to ask any questions and I will do my best to provide any additional details you may need.
An allen key now serves to hold the front drop panel in position when closed, it fits in a hole in the lip to the left of the lock plate: Lid held by chain on left side. Not brass but does appear to be original: Wood rail style drawer slides: Underside of drawer shows rough-hewn wood slat style construction: Somewhat shoddy old repair to back side of one drawer: Recessed brass pull rings on drawers: Cylinder lock appears to not be original: Number stamped into lip to the right of the lock plate: Realistically I don't expect to be able to pin down the maker of this chest, but perhaps you can advise of it's approximate age?
Given it was originally used in a watch repair shop I recognize that a machinist forum may not be the ideal place to inquire, but honestly this thread and "The" guide are the best resources I have located so far on the web. If you have ideas on other sources for me to check out please let me know. Thanks in advance for your time! Hello Ash, I really think that your chest was homemade. It has many construction features that you would not find on a professionally manufactured chest.
Here are 2 of the examples - The front, removeable, panel is made out of one board without having vertical grain boards at each end, which keeps it from splitting along its grain. The drawer face board side joints appear to be at 45 degrees, instead of the standard, square, single lock joints.
I agree that the cylinder lock and lock plate have been replaced. Maybe a key number, but normally they have some letters included. It has features from both eras. You have a good one……Ted. Thank you Ted, I appreciate your insights. It does not surprise me to hear that it may be homemade, and actually makes sense that I haven't been able to locate any quite like it.
Maybe the number was of some significance to the maker, unfortunately lost to time. I wish there was a resource like this for spool cabinets, as I have a penchant for those as well! Thanks again, and cheers! I'm not any sort of wooden chest aficionado. Nice chest, especially the side handles.
Interesting choice of drawer pulls. Maybe made by a local cabinetmaker who was approached by a resident of his town with a commission. Sadly the identity is lost to the sands of time and apathy of the masses. Originally Posted by woodchuckNJ. The table saw is safe at this point since I have a very flat face and a very straight edge to reference off of the table saw fence.
With one face flat, I can reference it off the jointers fence to square and flatten an edge. I gave myself a hand planing the stock. You can see here the planer sled underneath the lumber. Referencing the cut list in my plans available here I spent a good while laying out my pieces so I can get the best yield and grain match possible.
If you mess up all you have to do is wipe and repeat. With all of the stock nicely squared, flat, and with the parts laid out I could cut individual pieces out at the table and miter saw. The top and bottom pieces of the case I leave a few inches longer than they need to be.
This way if I mess up one side I have enough material to trim the mess-up off and start again. After each new cut at the miter saw, I square the ends of the piece with a hand plane and shooting board. To lay out the proud dovetails I add the blade of a combination square to my stock before dropping the marking gauge. Now when it comes to dovetails, there are a TON of awesome and highly qualified resources out there on the internet showing you how to cut accurate and great looking dovetails. I stack two boards together so I can cut two sets of tails a once.
A good set of wing dividers makes laying out dovetails a bit easier. I like to run my angled tail guide lines extra long for the tails and pins. I find the extra line length helps me line my saw up with the angle easier and keep to the angle. Chiseling away the waste by halving the waste until my chisel lands in the marking gauge groove. Strop your chisels.
A LOT. Blue tape trick for the pin board that I learned from Mike Pekovich of Fine Woodworking's book I highly, highly recommend.
Next I cut the dados in the case sides at the table saw. These will act as the runners for the drawers to slide along. Make sure to practice good, sound, table saw safety here. This will help get the cut started accurately and square. Top view of the finished and mirrored drawer slide dados. The plans provide greater detail on how to cut these. Since this isn't a portable tool cabinet with wheels, I wanted to cut out a small section of the sides to give the tool chest the illusion of having feet.
I did this by marking out the curve that I liked, cutting one side out at the bandsaw, refining the cut with a rasp and card scraper, then transferring that line to the other side and repeating the process. The through-tenon idea of the tool box only came to me after I had already cut my stock to length. Using faux through-tenons solved that problem.
I placed blue painters tape on the case sides so that I had a clear place to mark my references on. Using a marking gauge and reference materials instead of measurements makes the process quick and very accurate.
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